The Western Hemisphere's largest fort - La Citadelle. This massive and highly impressive fortress was built in the early 1800's by Henri Christophe - one of the leaders of the Haitian slave revolt which gave Haiti it's independence from France. The fortress is impressive and still boasts a munitions bank unrivaled in the region. Of-course the cannon and cannonballs found here would be of little use in modern warfare - and I'm sure the two centuries of neglect have not kept them in particularly good working order.
La Citadelle is situated at the top of the mountain above the city of Milot and has strategic views of Cap Haitien harbor and Cuba only 90 miles to the West. This vantage point places it in the perfect position to observe the primary navigation route around the new republic. (These straights were at one time frequented by pirates on their way to La Ile Tortug - their home when they needed a rest from pillaging and plundering.)
The fortress was built to ward off any threat of French troops returning to the region. It was designed to hold 5000 troops and has an intricate system of water collection using cisterns and runoff from the structure's many roofs. Cannon are still lined up throughout the halls and cannon balls can be found at every turn. (The building has been designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO and is currently being studied as an opportunity for tourist growth in the region.)
Given the French did not return, the fortress was never used in battle and is in great condition with very little wear and tear from anything other than the occasional earthquake, and with walls as mch as two meters thick even the earthquakes have had difficultly damaging the massive structure.
To reach the fortress, you must first pass the ruins of San Souci Palace - Henri Christophe's residence.More delicate than the fortress San Souci has been ruined by earthquakes, it once was a grand building with gardens rumored to rival Versailles. The ruins are impressive, I can only imagine how it must have been when it was intact.
Henri Christophe was one of the three leaders of the slave revolt. Along with Petion and Desalines, the three men orchestrated the second revolution overthrowing colonial power in the Americas - the first being the United States. A fact which still gives great pride to the small nation.
Not long after the fortress was built, Christophe died at his own hand. After suffering a stroke he felt vulnerable and unable to govern his provinces. In an effort to protect his body from desecration, it is rumored his wife had him covered in quicklime and buried in the fortress above their home. To this day the location of his grave is still unknown.
After passing the ruined castle, it is a steep climb either on foot or horseback to the summit of La Citadelle. There is still an air of mystery as the road climbs higher and higher through verdant fields and the remains of tropical forests. The first glimpse of the castle hearkens to another world as the sheer walls of the facade rise up out of the mountain above you. It brings to mind medieval knights and European monsters. A time capsule reminding us of another age - an age of colonialism, and age of pirates, an age not so long gone, but so difficult for us to truly imagine.
The project I was working on in Haiti is focused on tourism development. I can already picture the tram navigating the stone path to the top with its payload of cruise ship tourists Or perhaps a funicular or even a sky tram with vibrant painted gondolas will eventually grace the hillside connecting the palace grounds to the fortress courtyard. I can't help but think some of the magic will be gone then. Hopefully though, even as development encroaches - the walls of the fortress will keep the secret of the final resting place of Henri.
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